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11-28-2008, 03:01 PM
What Tom and Dano said!
As a second shooter, position and timing can be as important as settings. Here's a few tips, notwithstanding all the threads and all the advice heretofor: [/In no apparent order]
1. If all else fails, shoot raw and set camera to A and f8 for formals to keep good DOF. ISO - 100-640 tops. If all you have is one SB800 (on the camera), set its mode to A or BLTTL, and I prefer to drop it by 1-2/3s under (-) so I don't blow out the dress. (Remember, its about the dress). If you are a second, slide over to about 20-45 degrees off axis from the main camera, and fire immediately after the main goes off. If the subjects keep getting confused about who to look at, come out from behind your camera and tell them to look at the primary or stay out from behind your camera, looking at the primary shooter until they fire, then recompose and fire. If your camera angle is missing some of the faces, or your bride's nose breaks the side of her cheek, you are too far. If the primary can touch you or keeps running into you, you are way, way, too close!
2. You can't do much to extend the range of the flash at a dark reception. So to bring in room lighting, switch over to S mode on the camera, and slow your shutter to 1/20 or so. The flash will freeze action, but it is up to you to keep the camera as still as possible to freeze the room if you choose. It can be kinda artsy-schmartsy to sweep the camera slightly and make the room swim around the dancing. Style is your choice. I still run 1-2/3rds under with my flash, depending on what I can do with it in post processing.
3. Ask about what printing/media is going to be coming out of the event, and shoot for backgrounds and "color" to be used for the album, DVD, or framed composit shots. Is it in portrait or landscape more? Should details of the decoration in in the right, left, upper, or lower corners of the composite.
4. Back to the SB800 - I use the stoffen that comes with it and not the Fong or other stuff. I also extend the white card before attaching the stoffen. Most every place you will be, bouncing off the wall behind you wastes your light, unless you are shooting in a white bedroom. I also shoot it with the bounce set to 45 degrees forward. You get some ceiling (if it is white and low) and mostly forward and softened by the stoffen.
All this to say, M is better, and all this stuff is what I consider a good place to start. It is not the ultimate final recipe by any means. I shoot with commander/poppers or meter and wizards and a second flash with a softbox (either SB800 or Photogenic). I suggest not shooting off your primary's off camera flash so you don't overheat it or mess up their timing while it is recharging. Also practice being fully self sufficient and even being fully prepared to loan the primary something (or fetch it for them if there is no assistant around) if their equipment fails. Its all about the primary and reducing their work load, not trying to provide a second shot of the same image. Get your own, but make sure the primary gets what they need.
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